This year marks the tenth commemoration of the Wild Atlantic Way, rendering it an ideal period to embark on a journey on the world’s most extensive designated coastal tour. The renowned 2,600 km (1,600 mile) journey stretches across nine Irish counties alongside the Atlantic seaboard, encompassing an array of stunning vistas comprising of windswept wilderness, idyllic remote beaches, grand castles, lighthouses, and historic landmarks.
Road signs bearing the distinctive undulating WAW emblem have played a vital role in revitalising once overlooked hamlets and towns. This ingenious initiative by Failte Ireland has utilised our country’s inherent aesthetic appeal, even in spots previously overshadowed by the ever popular tourist draws on the western seaboard.
For Orla, a cherished tradition is spending summer cycling rendezvous with her son Colm, who resides in Brussels.
Keem Bay on Achill Island was named one of the world’s top 100 beaches by Lonely Planet, lauding it as a remarkably striking drive’s conclusion. The stream of endorsements continues to flow from global travel magazines, critiques, blogs, vlogs, and social media reels, inviting travellers globally to partake in the grandeur of Ireland’s famed coastal itinerary.
Recently, National Geographic Traveller informed its readers that the Wild Atlantic Way has emerged as one of Europe’s most thrilling journeys. This is due in part to its inclusion of some of Ireland’s most striking experiences. Celebrating its 10-year anniversary in 2024, a whole host of new experiences have been added to its route, offering even more for visitors to explore and enjoy.
The path, which weaves its way through three counties, formally begins at Inishowen Peninsula in Co Donegal, culminating in Kinsale Co Cork. However, an equal number of explorers prefer to start their voyage in reverse, trailing the northern coast. In recognition of the shifting scenes of our western coast, Failte Ireland has divided the route into six zones. The Haven Coast exhibits the enticing nooks from Kinsale to Bantry Bay and the Gulf Stream. The overwhelming views around the Cork and Kerry peninsulas are highlighted in the South West. From Kerry’s north to Clare, extending up to Galway, is known as the Cliff Coast, informally referred to as ‘Hard land, warm heart’. The Bay Coast, showcasing vast stretches of unspoiled beach lined by Connemara’s solitary moorland, extends up to the fantastic, wild Erris Beo in Mayo. The Surf Coast twists from Erris, passing through the gorgeous Yeats country in Sligo to Donegal. The Northern Headlands, raw, and practically uninhabited, are dwarfed by the vertigo-inducing Sliabh Liag, the tallest sea cliffs across Europe.
Travelling through isolated mountainous regions, descending to quiet beaches and bays, winding along rural roadways, precipitous cliffs, significant historical spots, and child-friendly attractions, with pauses in charming towns for a warming drink or an exploration of a bustling settlement, the Wild Atlantic Way has something for everyone. More often than not, travellers should anticipate a two-week journey, as opposed to the one week if some shortcuts are preferred. A more immersive experience involves completing the Wild Atlantic Way in sections throughout different seasons, or picking up where you left off on your next visit. Those who opt for a walking or cycling journey, taking their time to soak up the ancient past, panoramic views, and warm welcomes, will find their adventure on the Wild Atlantic Way truly unforgettable.
A notable example of this full immersion is Orla Mhic Athlaoich and her son Colm’s ongoing five-year journey (excluding COVID disruption), during which they cycle along the Wild Atlantic Way, covering 500 km with each week-long expedition every July. “Thankfully, we still have a few more years to explore Sligo and Donegal. I never wish for this amazing journey to conclude,” shared Orla, a highly active retired teacher in her seventies who cherishes spending quality time with her Brussels-based son, Colm Mac Athlaoich (43).
The book ‘Exploring Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way’ authored by David Flanaghan and Richard Creagh is an invaluable guide assisting cyclists with route suggestions. Preparing for long-haul cycling trips requires optimal fitness, with weekly training sessions covering distances of up to 100km, as per Orla’s practice. The unpredictable and often challenging terrain, characterized by steep hills and strong winds, form part of the thrill of the fitness challenge. She recalls the simple pleasures derived from such trips, such as spontaneous chats with local people, seaside dips, or diversionary explorations of intriguing landmarks. Intrigue surrounds the sightings of herself, an older woman, and her young male cycling companion wherever they venture along the route.
Orla and her son launched their adventure along the Wild Atlantic Way from their residence near Kinsale. Nostalgia was a driving force for the epic trip given the iconic journey undertaken by Orla’s grandfather, Peadar OhAnnrachain, in 1909. Peadar charted the entire western coastline from Donegal to his home in West Cork on his bike, collecting social history information for his book ‘Mar chonnach-sa Éire (As I saw Ireland)’. It’s Colm’s ambition to honour their shared expedition and his great grandfather’s experience at the dawn of the 20th century through a series of art pieces.
Consistently following the official route, Orla and Colm manage to cover a daily range of up to 100km. Their remarkable journey has led them across numerous islands, including Sherkin, Cape Clear, Skellig, Inis Oirr, Inis Meain, Clare Island, and Inishbofin, in West Cork and Co Kerry. They’ve made stopping at lighthouses a customary leg of their journey. Orla utilised her senior free travel pass for free transit across islands, though she needed to bear the cost for her bike’s transport.
For years, the wonders of the Wild Atlantic Way have never ceased to amaze Orla, despite her frequent travels. She speaks fondly of the bustling summer season, filled with cars, tourists, and endless tour buses at popular destinations like the Gap of Dunloe, Killarney, Dingle, and the Cliffs of Moher. Yet it was the uniqueness and serenity at the lesser-known spots, like crossing Dursey Sound by the vintage cable car in West Cork and exploring the other stunning islands, that truly captured her heart. As native Irish speakers, she and her companion also greatly enjoyed their time in the Gaeltacht, engaging in hearty conversations with locals. They happily recall the time they saved two sheep trapped in bogs in Kerry and Connemara, leaving them muddy but deeply satisfied.
Reflecting on their July 2023 journey, Orla speaks warmly of her unexpected enjoyment of Mayo’s charms, specifically Downpatrick Head and the prehistoric graveyards of the Ceide fields. North Mayo, with its untouched beauty and unique landscape, was a sight for sore eyes, even though the 100 km cycle through harsh wind and weather proved both challenging and rewarding. The pristine Ballycroy National Park, well-known for its clear night skies, was another unforgettable experience for them.
Their cycling adventure will culminate in a final stretch from Malin Head in Donegal to the outskirts north of Derry city. During the journey, soft rains over Achill led Orla and her companion to a cosy café, where they encountered enthusiastic overseas visitors who adored the Irish weather.
Surprisingly, they noted that the costs of their July trips have remained largely constant over the years. Their expenses alternated between affordable stays and slightly pricier alternatives. Yet they ensured that every night was a gastronomic exploration at the best local restaurants, enjoying a culinary scene that continually impressed and excited them year after year.
The Wild Atlantic Way’s upcoming phase is expected to take the journeyers farther northwards to Sligo in the forthcoming year, with a subsequent plan to reach Donegal’s expansive coastline by 2025. According to Orla, the ultimate leg from Malin Head to just above the Derry city outskirts might take an additional three years. She is optimistic about this timeline and insists that they don’t see the need to expedite the process, considering the high enjoyment quotient associated with the adventure.
If your preference is for less congested travel, it would be preferable to visit during the spring or autumn seasons. Also, the winter season can be an ideal time for a drive across the Wild Atlantic Way when the roads and tourist sites are at their calmest. However, if planning for a WAW cycling expedition, it is vital to ensure that you have a robust and well-maintained bike. Equally important is that you should be a skilled cyclist, capable of manoeuvring narrow roads that offer little to no room for overtaking.